I don't really know if I like this dress. Sure, I love the shape - it's lovely and 'skimmy' across my body (oh silk, delicious, delicious silk), I like the combo of purple and sage, and I'm pretty happy with the back straps. The problem? The neckline: love the curve, but my facing curls over. Unpicking and re-sewing has done nothing to fix it. And of course, now that I look at my photos the neckline doesn't seem so bad, but looking down at it bugs me. Always the way, huh?
The pattern was Lutterloh # 51, with a few alterations. I can't decide if I like Lutterloh or not - the lack of instructions is both liberating and frustrating, and the patterns cannot always be trusted. In saying that, there are some delicious vintage versions on Ebay.
My fabric, being a silk blend (what with Arthur Toye didn't say though), was slippery and stretchy. Thus, the pleats at the bust did NOT work out, and thus became gathers. I ignored the back section of the bodice, choosing to chop it (badly, as Mama Gypsy proclaimed) and made the ribbon straps instead. They took an age, and I had to be very restrained to avoid Bridesmaid-dress territory, but I am pleased with the result. I just can't wear a regular bra.
All in all - I am glad this dress is no longer hanging in my sewing room waiting completion. In saying that, I haven't a clue how often I'll wear it.
The Stats:
Fabric: Silk blend, $15 a metre on sale
Notions: aubergine thread, sage ribbon, leftover flowers from my teapin cushion. No zip! I can just wriggle on in!
Wear again? We'll see
Make again? Maybe? I get a feeling this would work well for work?
What I learned: That facings are the devil's best friend, and maybe I am too tough on myself, or too lazy when it comes to finishing what I start; you be the judge.
It seems to me that the dress is in need of a tea party to go to, don't you think? Silk blend, pretty straps - just perfect for sitting around and drinking tea from china cups, no? (Maybe we should arrange that next time you're in Welly-town...)
ReplyDeleteOooh, yes, sounds good! High Tea, Martha's, perhaps?
DeleteUgh, I feel the same way about facings. Every single time I use them, they turn out crappy and annoying. I don't know if there's some secret that I haven't learned, but I hate them!
ReplyDeleteI've just converted to bias facings... sadly this dress was before that..
DeleteThis is super cute! Could you try stablising the neckline with some twill tape? Sometimes that works for me. It's such a lovely frock it's a shame the facings are being a jerk. Love the colours!
ReplyDeleteThank you! Twill tape, that's a good idea, I'll see if I can find it.
DeleteI love it. I would actually recommend using a self fabric bias binding for neck and armholes in the future. Ever since learning about that for light fabrics I swear by it, so much easier!
ReplyDeleteAmen to that! I've only recently converted!
DeleteLoving the straps!!!! Great dress babe!
ReplyDeletedid you use fusible interfacing on your facings? that helped keep the facings on my recent knit top from curling up and trying to flip out. it looks really cute in the photos!
ReplyDeleteI did! So frustrating. Maybe my neckline stretched while sewing, seeing as the facing was fused but the neckline still stretchy. Hhmmm.
DeleteDid you understitch your facing? It stops the curl you're talking about. It's an easy step, and I don't think it's necessary to do the whole neck opening, in case you don't want to dismantle your straps for this. It's too beautiful a dress to give up on!
ReplyDeleteAn understitching tutorial:
http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-understitching
Good call - I usually topstitch, but never really thought about understitching. Thanks, will investigate and learn!
DeleteOoh the straps and the flowers are such a cute touch! Love it! I have to say I can't see any problems with the facings in the photos, being so dark, but I know how annoying it is when there is just that something on a garment that you know about and it gets under your skin...
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately I can't offer you any smart ideas!
No problem! The fabric is not this dark in real life, more aubergine than royal purple.
DeleteI lo ve this- the straps are such a sweet little surprise!
ReplyDeleteI have a Lutterloh binder from the 60s, love it but haven't made anything from it yet. Some of those vintage ones come with nice price tags too! :)
ReplyDeleteThe straps are such a nice touch...I see it's already been suggested but I was also going to say about under-stitiching to keep the facing in place...
Haha, yes, nice price tags for the seller, huh? I'd love to have a look at your Lutterloh folder at some time!
DeleteI really like this frock on you - especially the delicate straps. I don't notice anything wrong with the facing at all!
ReplyDeleteThank you! I have to admit feeling a little smug when I decided on the straps :)
DeleteThe dress looks really cute but I feel your pain on the facings. I can never get mine to sit well and they often want to sneak out to the outside. I often end up hand tacking them down in more places than they're supposed to be because they bug me too much. I think I'm going to start using bias facing a lot more!
ReplyDeleteAgreed! Bias facing all the way. Guess my next investment will be a cutting mat and rotary cutter to make making the stuff easy!
DeleteVery pretty! I really love the strap detail! Maybe you could sew the facing down to the seam allowances with a few hand stitches for a bit of after-the-fact understitching?
ReplyDeleteUgh, I have a dress hanging in my sewing space that needs to be hemmed... and it's lined, so double hemmed. Plus, I can't wear it this time of year so all motivation to finish it has fled - except wanting that feeling of seeing it all completed!
ReplyDeleteAlso, I see someone else asked you about understitching - it really does help! Facings can still be tricksy and try to roll, but the understitching helps encourage them to stay in place.
Oh I love the strap detail with the flowers! Cuteness! I used this tip for facings on my latest dress, and I haven't had an issue with the facings.. maybe it really did help?
ReplyDelete(Basically I trimmed 2mm off the facing. That simple.)
http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/tricks-of-trade-turn-of-cloth-allowance.html
Also mmmm silk!
Silk, Delicious Silk - indeed! This is such a lovely dress - looks great on you too! Hemming knits is a b*tch - agreed. I just managed to hem a knit top I just made and for the first time be happy with it - I highly recommend you get yourself a twin needle (for stretch, with the ball-point tip) - they are the bomb!
ReplyDeleteOoh, love it. You look stunning in it and ready to go to the Wellington Cup with the hat!
ReplyDeleteI do love the green satin straps though. Even if Mama Gypsy says you've done a bad job, I don't think so! :-)